Kauai

Kauai is known as The Garden Isle for its lush valleys, waterfalls, colorful Waimea Canyon and rugged Na Pali coast. It is less built up and commercialized than Oahu or Maui, which some might say adds to the appeal. Kauai's dense tropical landscape has made it the ideal backdrop for scores of movies like South Pacific (1958), Body Heat (1981), Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (2011), Soul Surfer (2011), The Descendants (2011), three of the Jurassic Park films, and TV serials like Gilligan's Island.  

Kauai has long been the ideal destination for active travelers who like to get outdoors. However by 2000 there was growing concern about overuse and the impact of too many visitors on this fragile area. In 2018, devastating floods caused closure of Ha'ena State Park, and when it reopened in 2019, it did so as a controlled access area. Today all non-residents wishing to visit any destination along Highway 560 from Hanalai Bay to Ke'e State Beach must purchase advance reservations from the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources.   

Reservations are available at Go Ha'ena.com and can be purchased up to 30 days in advance. Practically speaking, the very limited number of timed parking and entry passes sell out within minutes the day they are released. Parking is for the morning, or the afternoon or sunset, but if you want to park all day, you'll need to buy up all three time slots. 

Above: Ha'ena Park Shuttle Route

Alternately, the park operates a new shuttle system, which costs $35 per person and commits you to arriving and leaving the area at a specific time. The total travel time for the shuttle route is 30 minutes each way. Shuttle tickets rarely sell out, but at $140 for a family of four, it's easy to see why. 

Reservations: Go Ha'ena.com

All things considered, I still recommend making the effort to visit this part of the island, but I would hold off on all non-refundable reservations-- including airline tickets-- until I secured entry to Ha'ena State Park. Why? The reef-protected turquoise waters of Ke'e State Beach and Tunnels Beach at Ha'ena Point have some of the best snorkeling on the island and the parking lot at the end of the road (Ke'e State Beach) is also the trailhead for an unforgettable half-day hike on the Kalalau Trail. 

Read on for information on how to make the most of your visit. 

Above: Makua (Tunnels) Beach- the snorkeling spot.

1.Snorkling at Makua (Tunnels) Beach

Come here for what may be the best snorkeling on the island. The beach is named for lava tubes which run through the beach and out to the ocean. This beach has both an inner and outer reef making it an excellent spot for viewing sea turtles and a large variety of colorful fish.   

Disclaimer: This beach gained notoriety in 2003, when teen surfer Bethany Hamilton lost her left arm here in a shark attack. She was said to be a quarter-mile out at the time. 

Makua Beach can be reached by following Hwy 560 to Mile marker 8, then turning down either of two dirt roads and going another 0.4 or 0.6 miles. Please be respectful of private property and do not turn down roads marked as private drives. Park where you can along the side of the road and walk the rest of the way. 

Advance reservations are required

Above: Ke'e State Beach 

2. Snorkling at Ke'e State Beach

This lovely little beach has long been a favorite of mine due to its gentle-reef-protected beach and abundance of marine life. Come here to see sea turtles and enjoy a relaxing swim in paradise without having to fight the current. A swim here is especially nice if you've just finished a half-day hike of the Kalalau Trail to Hanakāpīʻai beach. Just make sure that if you have parked, you have purchased sufficient time spots to extend your day in this controlled access area. 

 Advance reservations are required

Above: The Kalalau Trail, Kauai (Image by Kathy VanDeventer from Pixabay.) 

3. Day Hike of the Kalalau Trail                  

Distance: 4 mi round trip, elev gain 760 ft.; difficult 

If you are reasonably fit, this 4 mile round trip half-day hike to Hanakāpīʻai beach offers stunning views of Kauai's north shore and the Na Pali coastline. Bring a picnic lunch and plenty of water as there is none on the trail.  There is a compost toilet at Hanakāpīʻai beach.  

The trail is best hiked in the morning during dry weather. There are numerous stream crossings, which can be treacherous during rainy weather. I found hiking poles especially useful for these crossings. 

Know before you go: 

Above: Hanalei Bay as seen from Black Pot Beach, Kauai. 

4.Hanalei Bay & Black Pot Beach Park

Often considered to be the single best beach on Kauai, this lovely crescent shaped beach became famous when it was featured as the backdrop in the 1957 movie South Pacific. Decades later, it remains one of the most picturesque spots on the island, capturing that laid back image of a tropical paradise. 

Park for free at Black Pot Beach-- the scenic beach between Hanalei Pier and the mouth of the Hanalei River-- and walk the pier for stunning 360 degree views. 

Watersport rentals and eateries are all nearby.  

Above: Enjoy sweeping panoramas from Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. 

5. Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge

Visit this wind-swept promontory for expansive vistas and to view seabirds in their natural habitat. Watch as birds like the red-footed booby, the great frigate bird, and the Laysan albatross-- all rarely seen from land-- build nests and tend to their young. 

Allow at least 40 minutes for viewing and consider arriving after noon to avoid crowds. 

Mandatory timed entry tickets can be purchased from Recreation.gov.

Note: 

Above: Wailua Falls as seen in Fantasy Island. 

6. Wailua Falls (in Wailua River State Park) 

When you see this waterfall, you may experience a sense of deja vu. And you'd be right. This spectacular natural attraction has been used in many movies, but is probably best known for being featured in the opening credits of the '70s TV series Fantasy Island.

Unlike many natural wonders on Kauai, this waterfall is easily accessible because it is right off Maalo Rd/Hwy 583. At the time of this writing there was no charge to park for a few minutes and take photos of the waterfall...even though it is in a state park.

From Lihue, take Hwy 56 north to Hwy 583. Turn left and drive a short distance until you see the falls. 

Above: The Kalalau Valley as seen from Koke'e State Park, Kauai

7. Kalalau Lookout

Come to this lookout point in Koke'e State Park for an overview of the Kalalau Valley without the strenuous 11-mile hike. This fertile three-sided valley which opens to the sea is said by archeologists to have once supported a community of over 2,000 Hawaiians. The population farmed taro, ate seasonal fruits, and fished. Today, it is the final destination of the Kalalau Trail, with permitted backpackers being limited to within 300 ft of the beach. 

Above: View of hanging valley from Awa'awapuhi Trail. 

8. Awa'awapuhi Trail, Koke'e State Park

Distance: 6.2 mi round trip; elev gain 1180 ft.; difficult 

This trail begins at a parking area near the hwy 17 mile marker and meanders through dense forest before breaking out onto a spine and rewarding you with expansive views of the Pacific Ocean and Na Pali coast. From there, the views are nothing short of spectacular and you must remind yourself to stop first, then look at the view! 

The trail ends abruptly at a grassy area on a ridge 2,500 feet above a hanging valley and is a great spot for a picnic lunch. 

Know before you go:

Above: Waimea Canyon, Kauai (Image by TeamHealthy808 from Pixabay.)

9. Waimea Canyon State Park

This state park encompasses what Mark Twain described as the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific"-- a deep, multi-colored gorge known as Waimea Canyon. The park consists of a scenic drive with pullouts that allow you to stop and enjoy the everchanging kaleidoscope of color in the canyon below. 

The canyon is 3,600 ft deep, 14 miles long, and a mile wide. There are trails which go down into the canyon, but I did not find them well maintained or safe. 

Above: Lydgate Beach Park, Lihue

10. Lydgate Beach Park

This jetty-enclosed swimming area in Lihue is a great place to swim if you have young children. There is plenty of grassy area for picnicking, a playground, restrooms and even a lifeguard. It's close to town and if you're staying in Kapa'a, it's only a few minutes' drive.