Singapore
Updated 03/02/25
Get to know Singapore
Singapore is a sovereign city-state at the southern tip of the Malay Peninsula in Southeast Asia.
Its position near one of the busiest shipping channels in the world contributes to its wealth.
Singapore came under British control in 1819 when Sir Stamford Raffles established a trading post there (i.e. opium and slaves.)
The country was occupied by the Japanese during WWII, then was returned to the British.
Singapore gained independence from Britain in 1959, joined the Malaysian Federation briefly, before being expelled by them in 1963.
Singapore became an independent city-state in 1965.
The population of Singapore is 5.7M, of which 76% are Chinese, 15% Malay, 7% Indian, and 2% everything else.
Singapore has four official languages: Malay, Mandarin, Tamil and English, the latter is used in government and education.
Population density: Singapore is roughly half the size of Los Angeles, but has almost twice the population.
Singapore is a multi-party democracy with the People's Action Party in control since independence.
Singapore has one of the highest GDPs per capita in the world.
It is a tax haven and has one of the highest GDPs per capita in the world.
Singapore ranks highly in education, healthcare, safety and overall standard of living.
Singapore is often referred to as the "Garden City" due to urban planning that incorporates nature into city life.
Singapore is one degree north of the equator, which means the weather is hot (85 F) and humid year round.
Singapore has a tropical rainforest ecosystem, getting over 100 inches of rain per year.
Singapore is mostly flat, with its highest point being 544 ft above sea level.
The currency of Singapore is the Singaporean Dollar (SGD or S$).
A sign warns of a $10,000 fine for littering.
I'm sure many of you have heard stories of archaic forms of punishment exacted by foreign governments for crimes that might not raise an eyebrow in your home country. Singapore is safe, neat and orderly for a reason. They have strict rules and enforce them. I was reminded of this when I passed a sign which warned that those caught littering will be hit with a $10,000 fine.
Route Map for the Singapore segment of my 20-Day Taiwan, Hong Kong & Singapore Trip
A word about prices: If you're from the US, Singapore will seem like a bargain. A complete "fast food" meal of real food will cost $8-$12 and I often found the portions large enough for two. Coffees, teas and bubble teas cost $2-$3. Singapore's great public transport system charges between 75 cents and $2/ride depending on the length of the trip and whether it's an express route. You can find great hostels for about $25-$30/night, but expect to pay the "tourist" price (~50%-100% more) when buying tickets for an attraction. For example: Singapore Zoo & Garden's By the Bay-- The former charges visitors about US$37 to enter, and the latter has you pay piecemeal for attractions, so it ends up being about US$60. (That said, both are worth it.)
Day 16): Board your EARLY flight from Hong Kong and arrive at Changi International Airport.
Clear customs and immigration, find an ATM and get some local currency. Don't waste your time trying to buy an EZ-link Card-- Singapore's now outdated form of contactless payment for public transport, rental lockers, and bike share sites. As of my Nov 2024 visit, they were phasing them out due to ecological reasons. I just used Google Wallet and it worked fine.
Changi International Airport in Singapore ranks as one of the top airports in the world.
I was in no real hurry to leave the airport because Changi International Airport is a tourist attraction in and of itself.
Just as Singapore's location between the South China Sea and the Straight of Malacca makes it a key player in global shipping, so its location between east and west makes it a global airport hub. This airport has it all: hotels rooms with showers that rent for as little as four hours, snooze lounges, day spa packages, meditation rooms, and of course hundreds of shops and restaurants offering seafood that is literally swimming when you arrive.
In October of 2019, Changi opened Jewel-- a nature-themed entertainment and retail space next to Terminal 1 that features the world's tallest indoor waterfall set in a lush landscaped garden. While this area is free to all, certain attractions, such as Canopy Park, charge a nominal fee.
I enjoyed a delicious lunch at Changi before grabbing my bag and taking the subway to my hostel in Chinatown.
I chose Chinatown because it is inexpensive and centrally located, yet close enough to Little India that I could have Indian food every night! And I did!
As I usually do when arriving in a new place, I dropped my bag and went out to explore the area on foot.
Indian food is abundant and inexpensive in Singpore.
The first stop for me was the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum-- a Buddhist temple and museum in Chinatown that houses a tooth said to be recovered from the cremains of Siddhartha Gautama (aka The Buddha or "the enlightened one") over 2500 years ago. The relic is contained within a 705-pound, 11.5 foot tall golden stupa located on the top floor of the museum.
Turn left as you exit the temple and you will see an interesting building on the corner of South Bridge Road and Pagoda Street. This is Sri Mariammam Temple and is dedicated to a goddess by the same name who is associated with health concerns. The temple is instantly recognizable by its five-tiered rajagopuram (tower entrance) of brightly colored sculptures that illustrate teachings from Hindu mythology and scriptures. The temple welcomes devotees and visitors alike, and provides the local community with a link to their cultural heritage.
As I left Sri Mariammam Temple on my way to a Buddhist temple, I turned on Pagoda Street and stopped to read a historical plaque. Gradually, I became aware of a haunting voice singing over a loudspeaker. The sound could be heard for blocks; it took me a few minutes to realize I was hearing my first Muslim call to prayer. This experience epitomizes the rich cultural diversity that I find so appealing in Singapore.
Pagoda Street is synonymous with Singapore's Chinatown and is a vibrant outdoor marketplace. But it is not without a checkered past.
In the early part of the 19th century, itinerant hawkers sold their wares along Pagoda Street, squatting on the pavement and displaying the items on pieces of cloth or bits of old newspaper. In 1842 most of the land along Pagoda Street was granted to the public and shops sprang up soon after that.
Singapore's Pagoda Street in Chinatown.
Two decades later, with quiet encouragement from colonial officials, the slave trade and opium dens flourished. One industry fed off the other as slaves, disheartened by their bleak life prospects, turned to opium for temporary relief.
Early Chinese immigrant seeks the services of a letter writer.
Another industry that thrived was that of the "letter writer". Many new Chinese immigrants were illiterate, but needed to send word home. These individuals sought the services of a "letter writer" who, for a fee, would put their client's stories to pen and paper. Their shops consisted of little more than a table and two chairs, but provided a vital service for displaced workers. One can only imagine the stories passed on through these individuals.
When you get to New Bridge Street, turn left and go toward Keong Saik Road. Turn right, follow it along and you'll run into Sri Layan Sithi Vinayagar Hindu Temple. I lucked out and happened to pass by when a worship service was starting.
I'm not sure if the riotous horns, drums and bells were meant to wake gods or people, but it was nonetheless interesting to watch.
I spent the rest of the afternoon and evening exploring the maze-like corridors of Chinatown, popping into Chinese herb shops, and browsing clothing and trinket shops before deciding that Buddhism is inconsistent with consumerism. I finally got some Chinese take out from one of the many street hawkers selling incredible, fresh and inexpensive food. Then headed back to my hostel to prepare for another day.
Day 17: Gardens by the Bay
Gardens by the Bay is an urban park in the Marina District of Singapore that is perhaps best known for its futuristic Supertree structures. There are 18 Supertrees throughout the park, ranging in height from 25 to 50 meters. Each "tree" harnesses energy from the sun using photovoltaic cells, collects rainwater, and aids in air intake and exhaust as part of the conservatories' cooling system. In addition, the trees function like giant planters, hosting over 163,00 plants in their vertical gardens.
A Supertree in Singapore's Gardens by the Bay.
The park is part of Singapore's ongoing effort to transform itself into a "city in a garden". The project began in 2006 with an international design competition, and was completed in 2011 within the S$1.035B budget. It was a massive undertaking, transforming over 250 acres of marshland into a sustainable urban park.
A random parking structure in Singapore illustrates their commitment to sustainability.
The park consists of three main areas-- Bay East, Central and South Gardens, with most of the tourist attractions lying in the latter. While entrance to the park is free, there are charges to go into the conservatories, the skyway, and the observatory. I went into both conservatories and the skyway and paid US$45.
The MRT stops at South Gardens to facilitate tourist visitation.
The conservatories are Flower Dome and Cloud Forest. The former displays plants native to Mediterranean climates in the world's largest greenhouse, while the latter recreates the misty tropical highlands and contains a diverse collection of plants native to that climate.
I spent about a half hour in the South Garden public spaces. The grounds are extensive, so pace yourself! They are lovely and often used as a backdrop for local photo shoots. The public gardens are open from 5AM to 2AM, making them an ideal spot for a morning run or nighttime stroll.
Flower Dome had the most exquisite collection of plant specimens I've ever seen, reflecting meticulous handling of these rare plants, some of which are more than 1000 years old. And the attention to detail, right down to the carved benches and sculptures was incredible. They even had a Ferris wheel for toddlers.
Tip: Bring a light jacket because both conservatories are air conditioned.
If you needed a light jacket in Flower Dome, you'll need a waterproof jacket in Cloud Forest. The temperature is cool and misty and that's even if you're not standing within the spray of the 115 ft waterfall.
Spend some time taking in all the colorful displays and walking the various paths. Then, either climb the stairs, or take a lift to the 6th floor to get a tree level view of the forest.
The Cloud Walk is an aerial walkway that winds around the "mountain", providing panoramic views and an up-close look at the fauna supported by the mountain.
If you have any "wows" left in you...and even if you don't... make your way over to the Supertree Grove to walk the Skyway and/or visit the Supertree Observatory.
The OCBC Skyway is an open air walkway suspended between two Supertrees. This walk provides a bird's eye view of Gardens by the Bay, as well as a close-up look at the Supertree vertical gardens. There is a S$14 admission fee to the lift which takes you up to the walkway. Visitors are asked to limit their time on the walkway to 15 minutes.
By mid afternoon, I had had my fill of gardens and headed back to Little India for Indian food! If you've ever eaten, and especially if you've ever cooked Indian food, you'll understand the labor involved in preparing it. Thus, with so much good, inexpensive Indian food around, I couldn't let a meal go by without trying another restaurant in that area. I randomly chose one of many recommended by Lonely Planet and, like most of their recommendations, it was spot on.
A complete Indian lunch for about $8.
And just in case the taste of the food didn't convince you of it's authenticity...
I spent the afternoon in Kampong Glam--the Muslim section of town. Originally a fishing village, it was designated as an area for the Sultan and Muslim communities under the Raffles plan of 1822. The area got its name from the Gelam tree, which was plentiful in the area, and kampong, which is the Malay word for village.
The Sultan's Mosque is the center of this neighborhood, conducting prayers five times a day. It is open for visitation Sat-Thurs 10AM-12PM and 2PM-4PM, and FRI 2:30PM-4PM.
The golden-domed Sultan's Mosque in Kampong Glam.
Kampong Glam is a feast for the senses, offering everything from Arabian perfumes and exotic spices, to trendy bars and cafes. One area that is particularly popular is Haji Lane-- a street known for its vibrant atmosphere, colorful street art and eclectic mix of boutiques and restaurants. It's a delight to stroll through, particularly at night.
Day 18: Singapore Zoo, Upper Seletar Reservoir
Having saturated myself with man-made gardens the day before, I was ready to see some wildlife-- even if it wasn't native to the area. With that, I headed out to Singapore Zoo, taking the brown line of the MRT to Woodlands East northern terminus, then catching a bus to the zoo.
To be perfectly honest, I almost gave the Singapore Zoo a pass, living in San Diego next to one of the finest zoos in the world. That said, I'm glad I went, because I was very impressed. True, you won't find polar bears in the Singapore Zoo, but you will find an extensive collection of animals that thrive in the tropical climates of Asia, Australia, Africa and India. Moreover, Singapore's open concept enclosure designs create an immersive experience for visitors, allowing you to view natural behaviors.
The zoo's animal collection boasts rare and endangered animals, such as babirusas, white tigers and orangutans. It has kid friendly zones, like petting zoos, live shows, water play areas, and feeding times that are available by reservations through the Madai app.
To top it all off, a local couple with extra tickets "adopted" me at the entrance kiosk and saved me the S$37 entrance fee!
Click here to download the Singapore Zoo map in English and access the QR code for Mandai Wildlife Reserve app.
Highlights from the animal kingdom. Although I've not included photos of them here because they are often barely visible in their camouflaged encounters, I also saw lions, tigers and a sun bear.
There is also a recently added exhibit called RepTopia, which features over 60 species of reptiles and amphibians from five different climate zones.
Being a plant enthusiast, I especially enjoyed seeing plant species that were new to me-- like the cannnonball tree from Central and South America.
Another delightful surprise was to stumble upon the zoo's Tropical Crops Garden-- an educational area where visitors can learn about tropical crops and vegetables. This garden is designed to provide an engaging experience, especially for children, by showcasing a variety of plants and crops that are not commonly seen in everyday life. Some of the crops and plants featured include: mangosteen, water chestnut, kobacha, dragon's tongue, yam bean, okra and sweet basil.
I broke up the day with a lunch of-- you guessed it-- Indian food, and by the time I returned to town I had put in a full day.
Day 19: Singapore Botanical Gardens & Sentosa Island
I awoke the next morning to a city that had been scrubbed clean by gentle overnight rain. As I made my way to Singapore Botanical Gardens, the gardener in me was fascinated to find a snail the size of my balled fist lumbering across the pavement. An inquisitive passerby, after being reassured that I was okay, commented, "Oh, that one's not really large at all!"
Snailzilla
Continuing on, I entered Singapore Botanical Gardens through the Taglin Gate, noticing the UNESCO World Heritage Site designation as I passed. The gardens trace their roots (pun intended!) to Sir Stamford Raffles, who in 1822 sent nutmeg seeds and saplings from Sumatra to Singapore to start an experimental garden. Fourteen years later, the nutmeg portion of the experimental garden was developed, only to be abandoned a decade later when the price of the spice plummeted.
In 1859, the experimental garden was expanded to create Singapore Botanic Gardens. Adjacent plots of land were acquired over the decades to produce the sprawling 202-acre garden that exist today. You can click here to download a map on your smartphone or tablet.
Map of Singapore Botanic Gardens
Depending on how much you want to see, I recommend allowing a minimum of two to three hours to browse through several of the themed gardens.
While I enjoyed it all, I especially liked the Healing Garden, which showcased over 400 medicinal plants used in Southeast Asian medicine. The garden was designed such that plants were arranged according to the part of the body they were used to treat.
I was curious to browse through the Toxic Garden, but found it locked due to safety reasons. Apparently it is only available if accompanied by a guide.
One area that was of particular interest for me was a set of steps located near the Taglin Gate designated #10 on the map. These red brick steps were constructed by Allied prisoners of war during WWII.
Many of the bricks have an arrow carved into them, which the prisoners put there as a mark of defiance to signify that they, not the Japanese, were the rightful owners of this land.
This history went unknown until 1995 when a group of Australian veterans who had been imprisoned on the island revealed their origin.
Just as I was leaving, I happened upon this lizard foraging in the undergrowth. Like the snail I'd seen earlier in the day, this lizard was much bigger than those we have in Southern California. I estimate his length at about 2 ft.
At 2PM, I tore myself away from the gardens and headed to Sentosa Island-- a historically significant island that has in recent years been transformed into a tourist attraction.
Originally known as Palau Blakang Mati, which translates to "Island of death behind" in Malay, this small island lies 500 meters south of the main island of Singapore. It was populated in the early 1800's by small communities of Chinese, Bugis and Malay people. But by mid century most of the population died off from an illness that may have been malaria. Then, nearly 100 years later during WWII, the island fell under Japanese control and gained notoriety as the site of mass executions.
In 1970, the island was renamed Sentosa, which translates to "peace and tranquility" in Malay. The land mass nearly doubled in size as sand was imported from Indonesia and Malaysia to create beaches. Luxury hotels and golf courses soon followed, and the island was transformed into an entertainment mecca.
Today, Sentosa is connected to Singapore island via cable car, bridge and monorail system, and is home to Universal Studios Singapore, golf resorts, luxury hotels, a casino, and many other shopping, dining and entertainment options.
I had brought my swimsuit with plans to try out one of the island's beaches and cycle up and down the island. Since I came straight from the botanic gardens, I used the Sentosa Express monorail between VivoCity and Beach Stations to get across the Keppel Harbour.
Once you arrive on Sentosa, there are free shuttles which transport visitors between designated stops.
There are three man-made beaches on the island: Siloso, Palawan, and Tanjon. I chose Palawan because it looked like the perfect island beach.
I was pleased to see storage lockers, changing facilities, and showers across from the beach. As far as the swimming...well just remember that Singapore is one of the busiest shipping channels in the world, so if you were expecting clean water, think again.
So despite the "brochure appeal" of the beaches, swimming is not a reason to visit Sentosa.
After showering off, my hair still wet from the shampoo, I found a bikeshare and rented a bike to ride the length of the Island. It was nirvana on that hot, humid day to be cruising down that shady road with the wind blowing through my wet hair.
Of course, the entire length of road can be ridden in 10 minutes, so once I'd gone up and down a few times, I returned the bike and explored the other beaches on foot. I found these delightful swings on the beach-- one was in the shade!-- and rocked to and fro as I reflected upon the wonderful people I'd met and rich experiences I'd been blessed with on my first solo trip,
I returned to my hostel as the sun set.
The next morning, Day 20, I was almost late getting to Changi Airport due an engaging conversation with yet another hostel-mate. In the months that have followed, my new friends call and text me on a regular basis to check on me and make sure I'm okay now that Trump is president.
My answer is always the same; yes I'm doing just fine. There will always be hate and evil in the world, but there are a lot of good, ordinary people who just want to be the best humans they can be. There are a lot of us, and we need to just continue being us.
Thanks for sharing the journey with me!