Japan- Treks and Temples

Last updated: 02/09/25

My first trip to Japan left me eager to return and explore the less traveled areas. This second trip does just that without repeating any part of my Highlights of Japan Tour. So if you like nature and want to explore the hidden side of Japan, this may be the trip for you.

Inspiration for this itinerary came from the same patient who'd recommended the Shimanami Kaido National Bike Route (Day 11 on the Highlights of Japan Tour). While stationed in Japan, he'd heard about the aforementioned bike route and a multi-day, cultural heritage trail linking sacred sites in the mountains. The trail he described turned out to be the 307-kilometer Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route and when I read that it was a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I knew I wanted to try it.

Meanwhile, my son the YouTuber, learned of The Nakasendo Trail-- a scenic 8-kilometer hike in the Kiso Valley between two well preserved post towns on a route that had once been one of the country's five major "highways" linking Tokyo to Kyoto. It was easily doable as a day trip from Nagoya-- a destination that was already on our itinerary-- so we just added a day there. Lastly, we'd missed out on seeing Osaka and Nara in our first trip, so those two destinations were already on our list. When we mapped it all out, it fit beautifully into our 14-day rail pass timeframe. Scroll down for a map of our trip and a detailed itinerary.

Route Map of my 15-Day Temples and Treks Trip

Ruth's 15-Day Treks and Temples Itinerary ~ $2,500 pp all inclusive from US

The purpose of this trip was to further delve into Japanese culture. That's why I jokingly referred to it as my "temple trek" as I planned it out. The result is the 15-Day Temples and Treks Itinerary you see below.

1 night in Tokyo— Just to rest up from the long transpacific flight.

3 nights in Nagoya-- Train to Nagoya, shopping, Osu-kannon Temple, Nagoya Castle; day trip to the Nakasendo Trail; Atsuta Grand Shrine to see the Kusanagi Sword; Port of Nagoya Aquarium, Maritime Museum, Observation Tower, Fuji Artic Cutter, trip to Gifu to see Gifu Castle.

2 nights in Iseshi- Ise Naiku & Geku Shrines, Futami Okitama Jinja, Wedded Rocks, rent bikes to explore, onsen.

2 nights in Kii-Katsura-- Hatayama Grand Shrine, Shingu Castle Ruins, Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji Temple, onsen

1 night in Yunomine Onsen-- Kumano Hongu Grand Shrine, onsen

2 nights Kii-Tanabe--

3 nights in Osaka--

Return to Tokyo in the AM via shinkansen from Osaka to catch your evening flight home. Unless you have huge layovers, you will recover the day you lost when flying out.

Day -1 (of pass): Board your flight and cross the international date line. Don't worry; you'll get this day back when you return home.

Day 0 (of pass): Arrive in Tokyo (Narita)

Clear customs and immigration. If you've purchased a 14-day JR Pass and are following my 16-day itinerary, DON'T ACTIVATE IT UNTIL TOMORROW MORNING. Why? Because with international flights, this itinerary actually takes 16 days to complete and you'll need to use your pass to take the shinkansen train back to Tokyo Station on the final day. So although the Narita Express is covered by the pass, we're going to buy a ticket for a train into Tokyo. Which line you choose depends on where you'll be spending the night and how quickly you want to get there.

We purchased the 14-Day JR Rail Passes again-- despite the large price increase of last fall-- partly because of the convenience and partly as a trial to see if it would still be a deal after the fare increase. It was not, but more on this later...

All seats on the Narita Express require a reservation, which is free to JR Pass holders. But again, you don't want to activate your pass today just to avoid a $1 reservation fee. We stayed in Shinagawa, with a plan to activate our JR Rail Passes at Shinagawa Station the next morning before boarding a shinkansen to Nagoya.

Tip: If you saved your Suica card from the first trip and brought it with you, you'll want to stop by an ATM to withdraw currency and reload some money onto it.

Enjoy a simple dinner then stretch your legs.

Day 0: Arrival in Tokyo

Drop your luggage and stretch your legs with an evening stroll in any one of the fabulous neighborhoods of this vibrant city. No matter what you have in mind for dinner tonight, you're sure to find it and more. Just try not to buy too much, 'cause you'll have to haul it around for the next 14 days!

Ben at Osu-kannon Temple, downtown Nagoya

Day 1: Tokyo to Nagoya

Catch a shinkansen to Nagoya and either store your luggage in a locker or drop it off at your new home for the next three nights.

Nagoya is Japan's fourth largest city by population and birthplace of The Three Unifiers, Nobunaga, Hideyoshi and Ieyasu, three warlords who fought to unify Japan. It is also home to Atsuta Shrine, one of the most sacred shrines in Japan and the repository for the sword Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi, one of Japan's Three Sacred Treasures. (More on this later.)

A typical shotengai in Nagoya.

Osu-kannon Buddhist Temple in central Nagoya.

We chose to spend the day walking through the shotengai (covered outdoor marketplaces) and visiting Osu-kannon temple. Since the temple is centrally located, we spent the evening browsing nearby Osu Shopping Arcade-- a shopping district which has been compared to Tokyo's Akihabara District for its wide variety of electronics, collectables, cosplay and anime products. And... speaking of cosplay...

From the World Cosplay Summit 2023.

It might interest some of you to know that Nagoya hosts the World Cosplay Summit each year in August. Like the Olympics, not just anyone can enter; only those who have won first place in their country's cosplay competition can advance to this worldwide event.

Nagoya night 1 of 3

Nagoya Castle is crowned with golden shachihoko (mythical tiger-fish ornaments).

Alternately: If shopping and pop culture aren't your things, consider spending the afternoon at Nagoya Castle.

Built in 1610 under the direction of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the castle served as a stronghold of the Owari branch of the Tokugaway clan for 260 years.

Although most of the castle was destroyed by air raids in WWII, the main keep was reconstructed in 1959 and Hommaru Palace was rebuilt in 2018. The keep was closed in 2018 due to concerns about earthquake safety, but you can still visit the palace and gardens for a glimpse back into feudal history.

Walking route from Magome to Tsumago via Nakasendo Trail.

Day 2: Hiking The Nakasendo Trail- Magome to Tsumago

We got out early the next morning to make the two hour train/bus journey to Magome. Our plan was to do the 8-km (~3 hrs) walk to Tsumago.

Like the Old Tokaido Highway in Hakone (Day 8: Hakone of the Highlights of Japan Tour) the Nakasendo Trail was one of five major "highways" linking Tokyo to Kyoto during the Edo period. The Nakasendo, which translates to "central mountain route", was dotted by a network of 69 post towns to serve the needs of travelers on their 540-kilometer journey.

Leaving Megome via the Nakasendo Trail.

While time and weather have claimed much of the trail, the 8-kilometer section between the towns of Megome and Tsumago has been preserved and makes for a great half-day hike.

By the time we reached Magome and started up the trail, it was 10AM and getting toasty!

Tip: If you hike from Megome to Tsumago, you cover the uphill portion of the trail at the beginning when you're fresh.

The trail follows a creek and climbs into the forest.

The trail followed a creek and within 45 minutes we were thankful to be in partial shade.

We continued to climb, the vegetation growing more dense by the minute. And just when we thought we were the only soles on this trail, we heard the clang of a bell sounding in the distance. We would later discover that bells had been placed along the trail with signs urging hikers to ring them so as not to startle any bears!

A bear bell along the Nakasendo Trail.

We stopped for tea at a rest house along the way.

And shortly thereafter, the trail leveled out.

Soon we were hiking alongside the Aragari River.

Me at the Aragari River in Tsumago.

Tsumago post town offers a glimpse of the Edo period.

And a delicious dinner to reward ourselves for the day's hike.

Once in Tsumago, we rewarded ourselves with an indescribably delicious apple soft serve ice cream, before continuing on to Nagiso Station to catch a train back to Nagoya. The walk is easy and enjoyable and I highly recommend it.

Tip: Although water and toilets are available along the trail, the route is mountainous so bring several water bottles and plan to be slugging it down!

Nagoya night 2 of 3

Atusuta Shrine is the repository for national treasure-- Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi.

Day 3: Atsuta Shrine, Aquarium, Gifu

Okay...I'll be the first to admit that we way overscheduled for this third and final day in Nagoya. But in my defense, I really didn't know there was so much to see at the Port of Nagoya. So before you blindly follow this itinerary, consider doing Gifu as a day trip all by itself.

That said, we set out early in the morning to see Atsuta Shrine-- one of the holiest shrines in Shintoism and second only to Ise Shrine in reverence.

This modest enclosure is said to enclose the sacred sword.

Practicing water purification rites at Atsuta Shrine.

Atsuta Shrine is the repository for Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi, a sword which is part of a trio of national treasures collectively referred to as the Three Sacred Treasures (or the Imperial Regalia). The Shrine is believed to be about 2,000 years old and is dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, as well as others. While the shrine itself is free and open 24 hours, the Treasure Hall charges a small admission fee and is open from 0900-1630. Allow at least 90 minutes to walk the extensive grounds and see the sacred camphor tree said to be planted by Kobo Daishi (the founder of Shingon Buddhism) himself over a 1,000 years ago.

What are the Three Sacred Treasures?

According to Japanese mythology, long, long ago...the sun goddess Amaterasu cast the world into darkness and despair when she retreated into a dark cave. She was eventually coaxed from the cave by a mirror and a jewel.

Much later, Amaterasu gave the mirror, the jewel and a sword (pulled from the body of an eight-headed serpent) to her grandson, Ninigi-no-Mikoto, when she sent him to earth to rule Japan.

As the legend goes, the sword, mirror and jewel were passed down to Ninigi-no-Mikoto's great grandson, Jimmu, who would become Japan's first emperor in the 7th century B.C., but there is doubt as to whether Jimmu ever existed.

The Japanese Imperial Regalia

Fast forward to today: the sword, mirror and jewel are now considered national treasures, providing tangible proof of the emperor's legitimacy-- that is, his ancestral link to divinity. The Three Sacred Treasures, or Japanese Regalia as they are also known, symbolize the primary virtues needed to rule on Earth. Each is kept in different repository and never shown to anyone. The sword, Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi, symbolizes valor and is kept at Atsuta Shrine in Nagoya. The jewel, Yasakani-no-Magatama, symbolizes benevolence and is kept at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo; and the mirror, Yata no kagami, is kept at Ise Grand Shrine in Iseshi, the holiest of all shrines in Japan (Day 4).

Our next destination was the Port of Nagoya Aquarium, which I thought we could see in about 2 hours. But for a few yen more (~$18), we could purchase the "deluxe ticket package" which also included admission to an observation deck, the Maritime Museum, and a former ice-cutter now turned into an Antarctic Museum. It was too good to pass up!

The sprawling Port of Nagoya Museum/Aquarium Complex

This evolutionary chart shows how whales are related to hippos!

Displays like this were too interesting to pass up without translating.

I have to admit being fascinated to learn that the closest living relative to whales are...hippos! (Of course, my smart kid already knew this!) If you already knew that then, good job! You won't be hung up in the discovery room like I was for a solid hour translating every placard.

On of many topical fish exhibits at Nagoya Aquarium.

This aquarium has it all--penguins, killer and beluga whales, seals, sea lions, walruses, otters, dolphins, tropical fish, and large animal training exhibits.

We stopped at a nearby food court for lunch, then headed to the observation deck.

Given the cloudy day, the view from the 7th floor was limited. We did a quick pass through the Nagoya Maritime Museum-- stopping only to steer a ship into port on one of its simulators-- before heading out of the building.

By now, it was midafternoon and we were faced with seeing the Fuji Antarctic Museum or going to Gifu. Ben had hiked to Gifu Castle before, described the trail as "rough" and wanted to try the "easy" route this time. He thought I'd like it, so we skipped the Antarctic Museum and caught a train for the hour long train to Gifu.

Allow a full day to see all attractions at the Port of Nagoya.

The first thing I realized after arriving at Gifu Park Station was that there's an entire day's worth of activities and sightseeing here. So the three hours we had until sunset would only give us a glimpse of the park. But nevertheless, we set out on the "easier" trail for the "1 hour hike" to the castle.

Entrance to the Japan-China Friendship Garden at Gifu: note the arrow pointing to the castle.

There are four routes from the park to Gifu Castle, which sits atop Mt. Kinka overlooking the Nagara River Valley. In December of 2023, Ben talked his unsuspecting girlfriend into hiking from river to castle. He described the trail as "rough" and wanted to take the "main" route this time. His obvious deduction was that some routes were steeper and less well-maintained than others. So at 4:30 PM, we passed the three-storied pagoda, and headed up to that little spec that you can barely make out in the photo.

The three-storied pagoda at Gifu.

The "main" trail...

The trail started out like this: steep but not bad. But soon, the hiking became climbing and it didn't let up.

became a climb...

(My son in the picture is 6' 4".) After 45 minutes of this and still far from the castle-- with NO prospect of taking the ropeway down--- we decided to turn around.

to Gifu Castle

This is what we might have seen if we'd continued.

By the time we backed our way down the trail, the lights were on in the lower park.

The lower park at Gifu in early evening.

If you go:

Come early and allow a full day to wander the lower park, explore historic ruins and take your time on the hike up to the castle. If you time it right, you can have lunch at the summit restaurant and visit Squirrel Village, where you can interact with squirrels. If you're not up for a hike on this steep terrain, the Mt. Kinka Ropeway can whisk you up in minutes. The castle is open from 0930-1630, and the ropeway is open from 0900-1600, depending on season.

Nagoya night 3 of 3

The pine and lantern-lined approach to Futami Okitama Jinga

Day 4: Iseshi- Marrage Rock & Ise Jingu Naiku

We left Nagoya early the next morning and boarded a train bound for Ise-- a quiet but spiritually significant city about 90 minutes south of Nagoya. Our plan was to see Wedded Rocks (Meotoiwa) in the morning and spend the afternoon at the holiest of all Japanese shrines, Ise Jingu Naiku. After storing our luggage in a locker, we caught a train to Ise Bay and walked along the pine lined approach to Futami Okitama Jinja.

Tip: If you take the Kintetsu Limited Express from Nagoya, you'll need to reserve a seat. You can do this at a ticket machine at Nagoya Station.

Approach to Futami Okitama Jingu and Wedded Rocks (Meotoiwa).

Futami Okitama Jinja is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Sarutahiko Okami-- the god of travelers. The site serves as a place where pilgrims can engage in misogi (or ritualistic cleansing) prior to visiting Ise Jingu Naiku.

This frog was very good luck for me!

Frogs are said to be special messengers to Great God Sarutahiko. Their presence is associated with finding lost items and returning safely from one's pilgrimage. Visitors often pour water over a frog statue's head as part of a wish-making ritual.

Wedded Rocks is a destination for married couples wishing to have their union blessed.

Wedded Rocks (or Meotoiwa) are two rocks in Ise Bay said to symbolize the union of creator kami (gods), Izanagi and Izanami.

In the Japanese creation myth, Izanagi and Izanami were the eighth pair of brother-sister gods to appear after heaven and earth separated out of chaos. The larger rock, Izanagi, represents the male, and the smaller rock, Izanami, represents the female. The shimenawa (sacred rope of rice straw) that joins them symbolizes their eventual union.

Wedded Rocks is a destination for married couples wishing to have their union blessed.

Today, the shrine is popular with married couples wishing to have their marriage blessed. Mihikari dedication tags are sold at the shrine. The couple writes their names and wishes on the tag and hangs it on any display located on the shrine grounds. This practice is meant to bring a divine purifying energy to their relationship.

In the afternoon, we retraced our route to Ise Station and headed over to Ise Grand Shrine (Ise Jingu Naiku).

Tip: If you chose to walk to or from Naiku, use Miyuki Doro through town, as it's more scenic than Mikimoto Doro (32).

Outer torii gate at Ise Jingu Naiku.

One of our objectives on this trip was to visit major shrines and temples since Japan's unique blend of Shintoism and Buddhism is so much a part of its culture.

Ise is often considered the "soul of Japan", because it is home to Japan's most sacred shrine, Kotai Jingu (or Ise Jingu Naiku, Inner Shrine).

While Ise Jingu refers to a complex of 125 shrines located on the Shima Peninsula, it is centered around two major shrines, Naiku and Geku. The former is considered the holiest of Japanese shrines, for it is here that Yata no Kagami (or the "Eight Hand Mirror")-- part of the Imperial Regalia-- is said to be stored. The shrine is dedicated to sun goddess Ameratsu, the premier goddess in the Shinto pantheon, and dates back to the 3rd century BCE.

As mentioned above, Japanese mythology states that the sun goddess Ameratsu retreated into a dark cave to protest mistreatment by her brother, storm god Susanoo. This plunged the world into darkness and was only rectified when she was lured from the cave by rumors of a goddess more eminent than she. Curiosity piqued, she emerged from the cave to view her own reflection in a mirror hanging from a tree at the entrance to the cave. The mirror was later passed to her descendants, one of whom may have been Japan's first emperor, Jimmu. This mirror, known as Yata no Kagami (or the "Eight Hand Mirror"), is now part of the Imperial Regalia and is said to provide tangible proof of the Imperial Family's divine lineage.

Also recall that the Imperial Regalia are never shown to anyone, so a visit to this shrine is more about being than about seeing. That said, the grounds are lovely and can be fully explored in an hour. Click here for a map.

I love the fact that Japanese revere self-reflection and the wisdom it invites as being the most valuable of the three essential virtues required of a leader.

Kotai Jingu (or Inner Shrine, Naiku) is believed to be where the Sacred Mirror is stored.

Having traveled hundreds of miles over several days, pilgrims would first bath at the Isuzu River before entering the Inner Shrine at Ise Jingu.

Wander the paths that weave through the ancient forest. Sit by the Isuza River and imagine the millions of pilgrims before you making the arduous journey to where you now sit. Their first order of business would have been to engage in misogi-- the ritualistic bathing of the body for the purpose of cleansing the mind, body and spirit prior to entering the shrine.

Iseshi night 1 of 2

Toyouke Daijingu (Ise Jingu Geku, Outer Sanctuary) · 279 Toyokawacho, Ise, Mie 516-0042, Japan★★★★★ · Shinto shrine

Video of Higoto Asayu Omikesai (Google Maps)

Day 5: Ise Shrine & bike ride

On day five, we arrived at Ise Jingu's Geku (outer shrine) in time to watch Higoto Asayu Omikesai, a Shinto ritual in which specially prepared food is offered to the kami, Toyo'uke-no-Omikami, the goddess of industry and agriculture. This kami was enshrined here so she could offer food to the to Amaterasu-Omikami, the premier deity in Shintoism. Food offerings have been performed twice daily without fail for over 1,500 years and involve a shinto priest leading a white horse to a section of the shrine known as the mikeden. This video from Google Maps demonstrates the ritual better than I can explain it.

The morning ritualistic food offering with the Sacred Pilar in the distance.

The white horse is considered an intermediary between the human and heavenly realms. The food includes offerings like fresh or dried fish, seaweed, rice and sake. It is prepared daily with meticulous care by a Shinto priest who has purified himself the day prior with ritualistic bathing and abstinence. The food is made with pure water drawn from shrine wells and heated with sacred fires. Click here for a map and to learn more about the ritual.

Again, the grounds are a joy to wander through and after you stop at every altar to offer prayers of gratitude, you can't help but become increasingly mindful of your many blessings.

We chose a bike trail which followed the Miya River.

Having visited the sites that were on our destination list, we rented bikes at Ise Station ($8 for a full day rental) to explore the rest of town.

Having walked from Ise Station to Ise Naiku yesterday, we chose a costal route for our ride today. We backtracked to Ise Geku, then turned right until we were at the Miya River and followed this to Miyagawa-Tsutsumi Park. Once there, we found a scenic bike trail which followed the river for about 30 minutes.

Following this bike trail in Futamichonishi will take you back to Wedded Rocks.

Then, turning east, we found ourselves on a non-descript four-lane road through the business district. Here, we happened upon the Aeon Town Mall and stopped for a shopping break.

Continuing on, we followed the bike trail along a sea wall and realized we'd reached Ise Bay. By this time of the afternoon, we were at least an hour's ride away from our starting point and realized it was time to head back.

Robots like this are used at the Kura Sushi Restaurant in San Diego, CA.

As we made our way back to Iseshi Station, we meandered through residential neighborhoods. I found it notable that there were rice paddies in virtually every speck of arable land. Despite this, Japan is a net importer of rice, spending over $18M on the grain in 2024.

We enjoyed some of that rice that evening at a Chinese restaurant. Our $17 dinner was brought to us by a cute little serverbot and the meal would be one of my favorites on this trip.

Iseshi night 2 of 2

Serverbot in IseVideo of our serverbot in a restaurant is Ise, Japan.

Atashika Beach, Yoshino-Kumano National Park.

Day 6: Shingu then on to Kii-Katsuura

Today we would be traveling far south in the Kii Peninsula to Kii-Katsuura-- our base for the next two days. Our plan was to set out early and stop in Shingu to see Kumano Hayatama Taisha Grand Shrine before traveling on to Kii-Katsuura.

As we headed down the peninsula, the residential housing tracks and rice paddies of Ise gave way to remote, wind-swept swaths of coastline, and ultimately, pristine Atashika Beach in Yoshino-Kumano National Park.

After storing our luggage at Shingu Station, we walked the 1km to Kumano Hayatama Taisha-- one of three grand shrines which make up the Kumano Sanzan-- a UNESCO World Heritage site. Hayatama is usually the first of the grand shrines that pilgrims will visit, followed by Kumano Nachi, then Kumano Hongu.

Approach to Hayatama Grand Shrine

Hayatama Grand Shrine complex.

Kumano Hayatama Taisha inner shrine

Although the buildings you see before you are reconstructions built in the 1950's, the site has been a place of worship since the 12th century as evidenced by an 800 year old pine tree on the grounds which is thought to have been planted in 1159. The grounds are compact, so in a half hour we were ready to move on to the nearby ruins of Shingu Castle. The castle was built between 1618 and 1633 as a regional stronghold to defend and protect the area since it was so far away from the region's capital in Wakayama.

The original stones steps remain.

Remnants of the garden at Shingu Castle

A climb to the castle ruins provides a spectacular view of the Shingu area.

Today Shingu Castle ruins are a picnic area.

It was used for over 240 years, eventually being dismantled in 1873 during the Meiji Period. Today, the grounds have been converted into a public park and afford fabulous views of the Kumano River as it meets the Pacific Ocean. Wear good shoes, bring a water bottle and allow at least 1 hour to hike up, explore the ruins and return to the station.

In the afternoon, we collected our luggage and moved on to Kii-Katsuura--a fishing port known for its onsens and as a base for for Kumano Kodo Pilgrims.

Japanese Mealtime Etiquette

A Japanese mealtime phrase that is stated prior to wolfing down one's food is to say, "Itadakimasu". Laterally translated, it means, "I receive this food". But as a one who loves to garden and cook, and a nurse practitioner who understands the importance of nutritious food, I find it particularly endearing because it evokes a mindfulness to food that is so often absent in America. In the moment it takes to pause, reflect and utter this simple phrase, the diner humbly acknowledges the many hands who have contributed to the meal that sits before them. Although it is often equated with, "Bon appetite" or "Let's eat", I find the translation, "Thank you for the food" as a preferred interpretation.

Another delicious, nutritious meal: Itadakimasu!

Our lodging for the next two nights was a Japanese style room, complete with onsen. We spent the evening orienting ourselves to this quiet town, working up an appetite for a delicious dinner and then relaxing in the onsen.

Kii-Katsuura night 1 of 2

The Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route

As mentioned above, the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Route is an extensive network of trails in the remote Kii Peninsula. The route links sacred sites across four prefectures and has been a destination for spiritual pilgrims from all walks of life for over a thousand years. The trails wind through mountains and valleys, passing through onsen towns and small villages. In 2004, the Route was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for it cultural and historical significance.

Nachi Taisha, together with Hayatama and Hongu, comprise the Kumano Sanzan, or Three Grand Shrines of Japan. There are several different segments, each traversing a different section of the Kii Peninsula. The Nakahechi Route is the core trail within this network, connecting the three grand shrines in the Kumano Sanzan. When translated to English, Nakahechi means "The Imperial Route" as it has been used by emperors and nobles since the 10th century to pay homage at these sacred sites.

The Nakahechi Entrance of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

Following the Nachi River to Nachi Falls

Day 7: Full day in Nachikatsuura

We awoke the next morning to the sound of light rain and knew it would not dissuade us from our plan to do the two-hour, 9 km walk to Nachi Falls and the second of the grand shrines, Nachi Taisha.

Out the door by 0730, we found a gentle paved trail through town that joined up with the road to the temple-shrine complex. The walk up the valley in the warm spring mist took us about 90 minutes and was well worth the effort.

As we walked through residential neighborhoods, I heard a musical sound of what seemed to be an ice cream truck. You can imagine my surprise when I discovered another Japanese oddity-- their garbage trucks play music to remind residents to bring their trash out to the curb.

After passing the trail head marker, we noticed side trails leading to "lesser" shrines with information plaques. Then, passing a pair of thousand-year-old "husband and wife" cedar trees, we found ourselves in Daimonzaka-- a particularly scenic and well-maintained section of the trail in which a popular activity is to rent costumes from the Heian Period for a photo shoot.

Women on the Daimonzaka part of the trail dressed in Heian period costumes

The trail is dotted with paths leading to lesser shrines.

Ascent to Nachi Taisha & Seiganto-ji complex

The Three-Storied Pagoda at Seiganto-ji Temple.

Visitors have been drawn to these falls for over a thousand years, revering them for their power and beauty. According to legend, the temple was built in the 4th century by and Indian monk who drifted ashore on the Kumano Coast and had a revelation of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy. (This may also be why Nachisan Seigantoji Temple is also known as the Temple of Crossing the Blue Shore).

Nachi Taisha Shrine and Nachisan Seigantoji Temple existed side by side as a jingu-ji (shrine-temple) in this peaceful valley for over 1500 years, reflecting Japan's historical blending of the two religions. They were separated into two distinct sites during the Meiji Period and have remained such to this day.

Seiganto-ji Temple at Nachi Falls

Ben and me at the Three Storied Pagoda

The main hall you see today is one of the oldest buildings in Kii and dates back to 1590. The three-storied pagoda was destroyed a few years prior to that and rebuilt in 1972. For a small fee you can go up into the pagoda, where you'll get a great view of the falls and the Nachi River Valley.

View of the valley from the Three Storied Pagoda at Seiganto-ji

Like many shrines throughout Japan, Nachi Taisha sells incense or candles as well as several types of omamori (amulets) and ema (wooden wishing plaques). One practice I wasn't able to find a name for is to purchase a small, six-sided strip of wood. The owner writes their worries on the wood, then casts it into the fire, symbolically letting go of what's troubling them.

Nachi Taisha Jingu

Torii gate to Nachi Taisha Jingu

Write your worries on a strip of wood, then cast them into the fire.

Don't leave without making a wish and walking through the 850-year-old Sacred Camphor Tree.

The temizuya at Seiganto-ji for ritualistic pre-worship purification.

Don't miss the walk to the base of Nachi Falls.

While at Nachi Taisha we saw the entrance to the Nakahechi Route. From this point it is 27km to Kumano Hongu Taisha.

Stone steps at Nachi Taisha marking the beginning of the Ogumotori-gue section of the Nakahechi route to Koguchi.

We walked back down the valley using the same route we'd taken that morning. While this was one of several "32,000 step days" we'd put in during this trip, this day tied for first place with our day trip on the Nakasendo Trail as our favorite experience.

We had another delicious dinner, soaked in the onsen, packed a day pack for our overnight in Yunomine Onsen the next night, and took our luggage to a baggage forwarding provider.

Kii-Katsuura night 2 of 2

A word about luggage forwarding

Luggage forwarding is a convenient and cost-effective way to send your luggage ahead of you to have it waiting at your destination. The service is also known at TA-Q-BIN or takkyubin, but my efforts to communicate with my host using those phrases came up with a big question mark! In our case, we were staying in Kii-Katsuura and needed to send our luggage on to Kii- Tanabe, where we would be two days from today. Our host recommended Yamato Transport, which was a 5-minute walk from our lodging, and for about $22 total our two large carry-ons were waiting at our lodging in Kii-Tanabe when we arrived.

Winding our way up the Kumano River Valley.

Day 8: Kumano Kodo Trail to Yunomine Onsen via Hongu

My plan was to take the train back to Shingu early in the morning, catch a bus toward Kumano Hongu and get off at a stop that either connected to the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route, or just walk on the bus route. We'd done a lot of walking the previous day, so I was aiming for less than 8 miles today.

We caught the bus as expected, but without a good detailed map (like I would eventually get from Hongu Heritage Center), we disembarked at Kanmaru and found that there was no connection to the Nakahechi from there. Hiking up the road for about an hour, we arrived at Shiko and again looked for a trail west that would join up with the Nakahechi. We were finally able to find it, but it required a 6 km hike over a mountain to reach it.

At 33.9 m tall and 42 m wide, Kumano Hongu's Oyunohara Torii Gate is the largest in the world.

Uncertain about the distance we were committing ourselves to but very certain about how we felt, we waiting for the next Hongu-bound bus on the 168 and rode all the way into Hongu. Once there, we were disappointed to find a shrine which was easily seen in 60 minutes.

Then I remembered that the reason people go on pilgrimages is to have quiet, contemplative time in nature. It's not about reaching the destination and being dazzled by the endpoint. It's about the journey there and insight gained in the process.

Since we'd ridden the bus up there, we apparently missed out on this reward!

Entrance to Inner Shrine at Hongu

Inner shrine at Kumano Hongu

Kumano Hongu Shrine grounds.

Ben and I stopped in at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center and got the first good map I'd had. From this I could see that the hike from Shiko to Hongu and then on to Yunomine Onsen would have been about 21km. In short, I was glad we hadn't attempted it, having pushed ourselves the day before.

After touring the grounds and seeing what there was of the town, we decided to do the "short" 2.2 km hike to Yunomine Onsen, where we'd booked beds in a hostel for the night. This section of the trail, known as Dainichi-goe, from Hongu to Yunomine Onsen was straight up and straight down but well worth the effort once we arrived.

The town of Hongu.

Dainichi trail leaving Hongu

Descent into Yunomine Onsen.

Yunomine Onsen Town.

We reached the hostel at 4:30 PM and Ben, a part-time student, was eager to check in and take an online final for one of his classes.

The first inkling I'd missed something came when the host informed us that they provided "free of charge, one bowl of rice in the evening and one bowl of rice porridge in the morning per guest". I was thinking, "Why is he saying this?", but soon learned the reason.

Two days prior the hostel had sent me an e-mail informing me that food options in the area were limited and I could order bento box meal delivery ahead of time. Since I hadn't seen the e-mail, buried as it was amongst the 50 or so I get each day, I hadn't pre-arranged for our dinner that night.

Fortunately, this turned out to be a non-event as there was one diner in town, that happened to be open and happened to have great food. So after a delicious dinner, which we were especially grateful to have, we had a relaxing soak in the onsen and turned in for the night.

I would have liked to have stayed here at least two nights. Which is why I recommend booking reservations for Hongu/Yunomine Onsen first.

Yunomine Onsen night 1 of 1

Yunomine Onsen Town at twilight.

The outdoor onsen at our hostel.

Day 9: Yunomine Onsen to Kii-Tanabe

I'm ashamed to say that I awoke the next morning with only one thought in mind: how to get back to civilization and the world of lattes!

Remember how I wrote that the point of pilgrimages was to gain insight? Well, I gained the insight that despite my love of hiking, I'd reached my limit for traipsing up and down steep trails without the aid of my hiking poles. I was ready to return to civilization and the beloved egg sandwiches from Lawson's! We were out the door and on the 6:04 bus bound for Kii-Tanabe the next morning, foregoing even the lure of drip coffee at the hostel to achieve our ends.

Lawson's or bust! Oh yeah!

Lessons Learned:

You must have good maps...and Google Maps are not hiking maps! If you're serious about doing a multi-day pilgrimage, consider purchasing the pilgrim's pack of maps (~$60) from the City of Tanabe.
Download and study the maps from The Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau.
Download a schedule of the bus routes and timetables and plan your trip in advance.
Take hiking poles if you have them. I left mine behind because they wouldn't fit in my carry-on. There were many places I wished I'd had them, despite the inconvenience of having to check and carry them.
Make your lodging reservations well in advance, as this will often drive your hiking schedule, if not your entire trip. For example, our 15-day itinerary was completely reworked to accommodate the single night we were able to reserve in Yunomine Onsen.
Do not assume you'll have cell phone connectivity as this region is remote. We lost connectivity while walking along the Kumano River despite having Pixel 4a phones and Google Fi as our service provider.
If you're staying in the Hongu or Yunomine Onsen area to do several days of hiking, ask your host about food. Determine if you need to bring it or order meals in advance as there is only one small store in Hongu and it is not well stocked.

Day 9: Yunomine Onsen to Kii-Tanabe

By 8 AM we were slugging down lattes at the 7-Eleven in Kii-Tanabe Station...and savoring every minute of it! We'd planned to spend the entire day hiking around Hongu or down the Nakahechi toward Takijiri-oji. With that plan scrapped and our luggage forwarded to our Kii-Tanable lodging, we stored what we didn't want to carry around with us in a locker and used our "extra" day to tool around Kii-Tanabe. The rest of the day was spent exploring the lovely harbor and Ogigahama Seaside park, then wandering through local stores and browsing shopping malls.

Tanabe Bay, Wakayama prefecture.

Purification of mind and body is an integral part of Japanese spirituality. Pilgrims entering Kumano through Tanabe historically performed the rite of salt water cleansing in the sea before heading up into the mountains. The practice is known as "Shiogori" and dates back more than 1000 years.

Today, Ogigahama Seaside Park contains a site in which Kumano pilgrims can practice this ritualistic cleansing. The only suggestion for its use is to have "an open heart and pure mind."

Kii Tanabe night 1 of 2

A modern day Shiogori Site at Ogigahama Beach.

The Shirahama Beach area is a great day trip from Kii- Tanabe.

Day 10: Shirahama

Up early the next morning, we were on a train bound for the resort town of Shirahama by 8 AM. Known for it's lovely white sand beaches and onsens, the area is a destination for Japanese as well as the rest of us.

a full day to explore Shirahama-- a resort town about 45 minutes from Kii-Tanabe known for its white sand beach and onsens.

Rather than renting bikes, we explored the peninsula in a counter clockwise route, walking the beaches at Ezura and Rinkaiura in the morning, stopping for a break sometime mid-day, soaking our feet in a natural hot springs foot bath, and swimming in Shirarahama Beach.

An unexpected delight for me was Sandanbecki Cliffs and Sea Cave, which is south of Shirarahama Beach and the Senjojiki Rock Plateau. I've been to many caves in my time, but this one was interesting because it had signs (in English!) explaining the geological features of the cave and...let's face it, who doesn't like a pirate's cave?! There's even a shrine down there dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of "all things that flow" including water, words, knowledge, speech, eloquence, music and...the sea.

Enter the attraction at the top of the cliffs.

The Sandanbecki Sea Cliffs and Sea Cave make for an enjoyable afternoon sightseeing activity.

Raiding pirates during the Heian Period were said to sail away and "disappear" into the cliffs.

Over the years, the cave became a valuable source of minerals, including copper, lead, and zinc.

A shrine to Benzaiten, goddess of the sea, complete with lanterns, incense burners and water purification basin.

Sandanbecki Sea Cliff Walk

After you pay your $10 fee to enter, ride the elevator down 1500 ft to cave level. Explore this first, as last entrance is at 4:30PM. Allow a full hour to visit the site, as you'll want to walk along the sea cliffs to watch waves crashing against the rocks.

That evening, we rode the train back to Kii-Tanabe and enjoyed another great dinner at a local restaurant.

Kii-Tanabe night 2 of 2

Day 11: Kii-Tanabe to Osaka

Today we transferred to Osaka, Japan's third most populous city. A check of train schedules confirmed that we could cut our four hour transit time in half if we took a limited express train. Since all limited express trains require seat reservations, we got to the station early to get them (from the ticket machines) and were in Osaka by 11AM.

Rain was predicted for the next two days, which was fine with me. Honestly, after days of shrines and small towns, I was ready for some serious shopping and eating!

Once in Osaka, we dropped our luggage at our hostel, then went to Umeda, a district of Osaka known for its shopping and having a mall with a 75 meter Ferris wheel mounted to its roof. When viewed from the front, the wheel appears to cut the shopping complex in two.

After a delicious lunch and gelato desert downtown, Ben and I split up to go shopping on our own.

We didn't meet up again until that evening when we rolled into our respective bunks at the hostel.

Osaka night 1 of 3

How to order when you can't speak the language

So how do you order a meal when you can't speak the language? While Google Translate is a lifesaver, many Japanese speak at least a few words. Barring that, many restaurants have plastic models of the food, so all you need to do is point or take a picture of the meal you want. Some places like the one below have barcoded tags, which allow you to have freshly made "fast food".

1

Select from the menu items; take a barcoded plastic tag.

2

Scan the barcode from your tag; pay for your meal.

3

Wait a couple minutes; retrieve your order and eat!

Day 12: Full day in Osaka

I will be the first to admit that I have very eclectic tastes. When traveling, I love getting into the flow of everyday life with the locals. Whether it's wandering through stores to see what people buy, poking through resale shops to see what they discard, or being part of the rush hour commute and admiring the efficiency with which it flows. I love being immersed in the cultures of the country I'm visiting and that is how I chose to spend my one and only free day in Osaka.

Armed with an umbrella, I set out in the morning aiming to walk through Tennoji Park to Tennoji Station-- a large train station with a huge shopping center-- then browsing second hand and retail stores in the greater Osaka area. I also wanted to satisfy a long-standing curiosity by visiting a pachinko parlor.

One interesting fact I learned on this trip is that it is apparently difficult to get rid of things in Japan due to their complex waste disposal system. Items must be sorted by category (e.g. combustible, non-combustible, recyclable, and oversized items.) Any item over 30cm in any one dimension requires the resident to pay a fee, get special stickers, and schedule a pick-up. The process can take 2-3 weeks.

We met up that evening to visit the local shotengai and Dotonbori-- a long, brightly lit pedestrian shopping district. At night, the shopping/dining scene really comes alive, with all sorts of flashy signs attempting to grab your attention and claim that precious real estate within your stomach.

As lively as the shopping district may be, things tend to wind down by 9PM. So with our stomachs happy and our feet less so, we walked the short distance to our hostel at Namba Station.

Osaka night 2 of 3

Nara is home to about 1200 wild deer.

Day 13: Day trip to Nara

I had wanted to work Nara (and Osaka) into my Highlights of Japan trip, but couldn't due to time constraints. This time I allowed three days in Osaka, knowing that even if it rained for two of them I'd be able to tour Nara when it wasn't pouring rain. Our last full day in Osaka turned out to be that perfect day.

After a leisurely morning of lattes and breakfast, we took the Kintetsu-Nara line (1 hr) to the station of that same name.

Nara was the first capital of Japan, serving as such from 710 to 794, after which it was moved to present day Kyoto. The entire city of Nara, containing seven key structures and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest, is collectively designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site to preserve the "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara" and recognize their influence on Japanese culture.

While the area is fairly compact and a joy to peruse at your leisure, the four sites we concentrated on were Kōfuku-ji, Tōdai-ji and Nigatsu-do Temples.

The city has free Wi-Fi. Click here for a walking map and here for a Wi-Fi area map.

The Kōfuku-ji Buddhist Temple in Nara is the national headquarters of the Hossō school of Buddhism and if you walk east from Kintetsu-Nara station, you'll run right into it.

The temple was built in 714 and destroyed by fires and civil war seven times, with the last being in 1717. It was rebuilt in 2018 after an absence of 300 years.

The most important building within the complex is Central Golden Hall, which houses some 1811 images of the Buddha Shakyamuni as well as sculptures dating back to the 12th century.

The entrance fee is 500 Yen. While photography is not permitted inside the temple, you can photo laminated pages explaining the temple's history. (Or just use the free Wi-Fi.)

Tōdai-ji (or the "Great Eastern Temple") is just northeast of Kofuku-ji and is where you'll find the Daibutsuden and the Great Buddha of Nara. Click here to download a copy of the complex map.

As you make your way to the main hall, you'll pass through the Namdaimon Gate (or "Great South Gate". This is the main gate of Tōdai-ji and bears the distinction of being the largest temple entrance in Japan. The original gate was built in 752 but destroyed in a typhoon in 962. The structure you see today was rebuilt and completed in 1203.

Notice the two ferocious-looking niō guardians (or guard gods)-- one with his mouth open (Agyo) and one with his mouth closed (Ungyo). If they look huge, it's because they are. At 8.5 meters tall, they are the largest such figures in the country.

Cross through the gate and you will see the smaller, but spiritually significant Chumon or middle gate which delineates inner from outer sacred spaces. Here you'll have the opportunity to reflect upon your intentions, make an offering, light incense and engage in ritualistic water purification before entering the main hall.

Unlike the temple buildings and the Great Buddha, the hexagonal lantern in front of the Daibutsuden, is one of the few original artifacts that has endured the ravages of time. It dates back to the 8th century when the temple was first founded.

Tip: If you intend to photo the Diabutsuden, you'll need to back way up to get it all in!

An altar with access windows invites visitors to rub parts of Binzuru.

The statue of Binzuru, also known as Pindola Bharadvaja, is near the entrance of the Great Buddha Hall. This spiritually advanced follower of the Buddha is said to possess the gift of healing. Visitors are invited to rub the part of the statue that corresponds to their own afflictions while praying for healing.

All I can say is...my left shoulder felt better after rubbing Binzuru's left shoulder and praying for healing. You'll have to try it for yourself!

The Daibutsuden (or Hall of the Great Buddha) and the colossal bronze Buddha it houses were constructed between 745 and 752 under the direction of Emperor Shōmu to unify a country destabilized by years of poor crops, epidemic and civil unrest. Shōmu believed that unifying the nation under Buddhism would encourage peace while protecting it from further calamity.

Unfortunately, that didn't happen. The Daibutsuden was destroyed twice by fires over the years. The building you see today is a rebuild from 1692 and is a mere two-thirds the size of the original. But don't despair; until 1998, it was the largest wooden building in the world.

Step inside to admire the Tōdai-ji Daibutsu (or Great Buddha of Nara) which, at 15 meters (excluding pedestal), is the largest bronze statue of Buddha in the world. At the time of its construction it required all the available copper in the country.

The Vairocana (or cosmic buddha) was chosen for this ambitious project in an effort to bridge Shinto and Buddhist beliefs. In Sanskrit "Vairocana" means "illuminator" or "embodiment of light" and this was thought to be compatible with the Shinto worship of Ameratsu.

From the Great Buddha Hall, head up the cobblestone steps to Nigatsu-dō for a stunning view of Nara and the temple complex. Nigatsu-dō temple has hosted the annual repentance ceremony, Shuni-e, dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy, Kannon, without interruption since 760 CE.

The ceremony was historically held in the second month of the traditional lunisolar calendar. This is why Nigatsu-dō is also called the "The Hall of the Second Month".

Today, the ceremony is held from March 1 to the 15th, with a "Water-Drawing" ritual on the 12th. In this event, monks draw sacred water from a well beneath the temple. The water, said to have healing properties, is offered to Kannon and distributed to the public.

Don Quixote Ferris wheel in Ebisu, Osaka.

In the late afternoon, we returned to Osaka via the Kintetsu-Nara Express line, then made our way to Ebisu to do some last day shopping for omiyagi-- specialty foods Japanese typically buy while on trips to reward those who have stayed behind and "held down the fort" so-to-speak, in their absence.

Osaka night 3 of 3

Canal boat in Ebisu

Day 14: Osaka to Tokyo (Narita) and fly out

Use your JR Pass if you've bought one to catch a shinkansen to Tokyo. From there, use the ticket machines to reserve your seat on the Narita Express, which will take you to Narita Terminal 2-- the international terminal. Again, unless you have crazy layovers, you'll arrive home the same day only earlier than when you left.

You'll ride the Shinkansen (under 4 hrs) from Shin-Osaka Station to Shinagawa Station. From there, you use your JR pass to reserve tickets on the Narita Express train to Narita International Airport.

It was not intuitively obvious as to how to do this, so I've included details in this blog.

Note the (easy to miss) button at the bottom of the screen. That is what you'll want to select.
Once you select the time and train you want, it will prompt you to enter your JR Rail Pass below.
The machine will then verify your pass and dispense your tickets without additional charges.

Self-service ticket window from which you'll reserve your seat on the Narita Express.

You'll see signs like these posted to avoid confusiono.

Unfortunately, when the train arrives, it may not necessarily have the NEX markings or the airport symbol.

Once on the train, you can track your route via onboard monitors.

Lessons learned:

You can do Nakasendo on the fly, but not Kumono Kodo. If you really want to do the latter please follow my recommendations earlier in this blog.
If I have the choice of flying via Narita or Haneda, I will choose Haneda every time.
With the up to 70% price increases in 2023, the JR Rail pass is no longer the most cost effective way to travel within the country. It's now better to buy point-to-point tickets. We did the math and would have saved $200 apiece by foregoing the passes.

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